Benvenuti alla mia Italia!

Benvenuti alla mia Italia! (Sunday April 10, 2005)

I've seized a second, miraculous opportunity to do something I love doing - spending a semester in a culture not my own facilitating the learning experiences of college students immersed in it for the first time! I've created this web page for those of you who might like to vicariously enjoy some of what I am seeing and learning here. Another place you can go on the web to get the students' perspectives is the CHS@AU in Italy weblog: http://www.humsci.auburn.edu/pmachine/weblog.php

All 18 of the students in the piazza of Castel Gandolfo, where the Pope's Summer Residence is located. To your left, you see the Church of St. Thomas, an "extreme makeover" of an earlier church originally dedicated to a different saint, redesigned inside and out by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the Baroque Age's multitasking, multimedia genius. Prior to this makeover, the fountain (from the early 1600s) was already a central element of the piazza, created by a master sculptor, who happened to be Bernini's talented, but quickly overshadowed father, Pietro.

During my first tour of duty with CHS@AU in Italy last summer, I was thrilled to learn and relearn about the history of our Western civilization as it was formed in this part of the world. It was impossible for me not to make connections between the past and the present, impossible to avoid sensing the character, color, and evolving sensibilities of generations past. The historical information provided to us by Marco Antonini and Sara Magister, the field trips to the remains of the Forum of ancient Rome, the old seaport of Ostia Antica, and the ruins of Palestrina and Alba Longa provoked unforeseen connections in my mind between the Roman empire--unrelenting in spreading its dominion and organizing influence throughout much of the known world--and my home country, as globally influential and powerful two millennia later in its own relentless way.

Along the Via dei Fori Imperiali (the Imperial Forums)--a main roadway running alongside the Colosseo, amidst the ruins of the Roman forums, and emptying into the Piazza di Venezia--are four enormous stone maps (erected under Mussolini, I think) that show the growth of Rome from its crude beginnings in 750 b.c. (just a small white dot on the first map) to its heyday about 120 a.d. (shown here).

Among the ruins of the Roman Forum are the old stones of buildings buried for centuries and dug up in the late 1800s when Italy became unified and wished to harken back to its glorious age. Our visit this semester was on a very sunny, but very cold, day. Kristi shows how happy she is to be here (in spite of being underdressed for the chill wind) in the "ancient" Rome she had expected to find--that is, NOT the busy, crowded capital city that juxtaposes all we know as modern life today haphazardly with the antiquities of the baroque, renaissance, middle, and imperial ages.

This frieze on the Arch of Titus depicts the Empire's triumph over Jerusalem. Arches such as this one and the Arch of Septimus Severus were the ancient Roman leaders' "mass media" for an illiterate population who could, however, read the symbols to understand what their emperors had done for them lately. The Romans have a reputation for being tolerant of the religious and cultural traditions of the lands and peoples they conquered. This was not, however, the case for the Jews, a monotheistic culture unwilling to quietly accept Roman rule. In the frieze, Titus leads a procession of the spoils of war. We are to understand, by the depiction of the capture of the menorah and the arc of the covenant, the Empire's total destruction of Jewish civilization.

I see the ruined aqueducts and know that it was Rome itself who started destroying these structures--critical to the ability of Roman citizens to have access to fresh water--in order to make it harder for Vandals and Visigoths to use them to enter Rome and threaten its physical security. And I wonder how alike this is, 2000 years later, to the powerful United States trying to secure itself through war and by curtailing some of the civil liberties that have made it a country of opportunity for so many. It was the engineering and administrative genius of the Romans that helped raise the empire to its heights. A less tangible infrastructure in modern times, but of great importance nonetheless, has been our open borders, continuing progress toward realizing our principles of democratic fair-mindedness, and the application of our vast capital and human resources for the widest benefit of all. These features of our society have elicited the vital contributions of a diversity of cultures and viewpoints and ideas. To protect themselves in the short-term, the Romans tore down what made them great. Could we be in danger of doing the same?

The weather in February was wintry, clear and sunny for the most part...until the third week when it rained almost every day, it had only rained each and every Saturday. But on each of three successive Sundays, it snowed (though it melted away quickly)! Ariccians were simultaneously amazed and appalled - "...such a hard winter!" they said.

Snow in Ariccia is rare. Even rarer is snow in the sunny south, where we went for an overnight excursion to Pompeii, Positano, and Naples. The drive south began in a thunderstorm at 6:30 a.m., progressed to snowfall on the A1 to Naples (we made it just far enough to avoid being stopped when they closed the highway). Rain, wind, snow...everything, said Susanna, except Zeus' lightning bolt!

Our guide, Stefano, and the buried city of Pompeii greeted us in the rain and cold. However, there is no way that Pompeii can be missed. It is because of the misfortune of Pompeii that we know much about ancient Rome today. Pompeii was a bustling seaport and trade city of the Roman Empire in the first century A.D., until the year 79, when Mt. Vesuvius (until then known only as a picturesque peak prominent among the foothills and cliffs of the Bay of Naples) began its three-day eruption. Rediscovered in the mid-1700s, two-thirds of the city has since been excavated, displaying an astonishing archeological record of the advanced technological, engineering, and artistic skills that were a commonplace in the everyday life of Pompeiians living nearly 2000 years ago.

After our morning in Pompeii, we set off along the Amalfi coast to Positano to spend an afternoon and evening in this cliffside resort town. The dreary day slowly took a turn for the better. The sun hinted at its possible arrival. The sky turned from dark gray to a kinder shade of dark blue and the rain clouds began to break up. As we drew closer to the outskirts of our destination, the sun broke through. To see Positano situated between snow spattered cliffs and the sparkling Mediterranean was quite a site!

That evening in Positano, we went up, up, up the winding roads to the top of the cliffs to a restaurant called "La Tagliata." Traditional Neapolitan fare - including grilled meat, which the girls had been missing a lot. It was Katie's 21st birthday and her family and friends (at home and on the trip) made it a special day. We all had a great time that evening (even without the musicians the summer group had enjoyed, without dancing on the chairs, and without Francesco bull fighting with his napkin on the table).

B-day girl Katie (left) and Netherland Cierra, Beppe, and Turner Allison, Kristi, and Ashley

We returned from our southern excursion to enjoy a week "at home" in Ariccia. Prescheduled trips to Assisi and Bagnoregio were postponed until better weather for driving could be expected. Instead we took our trip to the Vatican and St. Peter's. Our terrific guide, Gian Paolo, explained some of the many art treasures accumulated by the Papacy over the centuries. For example, the "torso of the belvedere" was a remnant of an original Greek sculpture unearthed in the 1500s. Michelangelo was asked to restore it, but after consideration refused, believing it to be "perfect" in its imperfect and broken form (let this be a lesson to all of us perfectionists)--an example of the emotional expressivity inherent in the movement of the human body. He called it his "teacher" and his incorporation of its "lessons" on his subsequent paintings and sculptures was dramatically influential on the art and thinking of Michelangelo's contemporaries and succeeding generations of artists.

ß The Belvedere Torso (in the Vatican Museum). When I walked all around it, I could find so many different emotional states expressed in its muscular, truncated movements. From one side, despair. From another, excitement. From this viewpoint, deep contemplation. From that, duress. Amazing, in a way, that an abstraction of the human body could “tell” me so much. But, then, not so amazing for those who study non-verbal communication. Language and facial expressions are the cues we normally look to, but the body communicates so much more of which it is unaware. And Michelangelo brought this into his art.

Inside St. Peter’s, you find Bernini at his most dramatic. In the foreground is his baldacchino (canopy) made of bronze pilfered by the Barberini Pope from the dome of the Pantheon (the play-on-words joke in Italian is that Barberini did more damage than the barbarians). In the background is his amazing sculptural group with St. Peter’s throne in the center, and above it the rays of the sun both literal and figurative shining out from the dove of the Holy Spirit. It's impossible to convey the size of this cathedral to you in a picture. It's hard enough to grasp it in person! à

It is mind-boggling, really, to be faced with the tremendous art heritage found within the borders of Italy. As if it wasn't enough to enjoy the treasures of the Vatican, of St. Peter's, or of Rome itself, we traveled to Siena and Florence. Florence is famous as the center of the Italian Renaissance, but Siena also boasts a notable artistic patrimony--primarily from the late middle ages. I've been to Siena on a number of occasions, but each time it shows me something new. This time, in the stone carvings of its Duomo (main cathedral), ten sibyls--pagan prophetesses--who according to the early Christian apologist Lactantius foretold the coming of Christ in the various parts of the ancient Mediterranean world from which they came (Libya, Persia, Greece, Turkey, etc). What fascinates me is that these ancient women were "learned" women in a time when few societies placed women much higher in status than their slaves. The fact that they are represented in both late medieval and renaissance art (five of them appear prominently in Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel masterpiece) interests me. What is going on when a patently patriarchal religious tradition chooses to represent pagan women in the art it commissions its best artists to realize?

	<-(L) One small part of the carved facade of Siena's Duomo. (R)-> The Chigi-Saracini Palazzo. The Chigi's built their fortune in the banking business and Siena was where they first rose to power. (
-> The medieval walled city of Monteriggione. It was on the ancient rode through Italy to France (Via Francigena). ->> Resting at the well in the main city square.
	<- From medieval Siena to Monteriggione to San Gimignano (jee-me-NYAH-no) on our way to Renaissance Florence. On the left, I'm on a walking path outside the walls of "San Gim" looking up to one of its several remaining towers. Tuscany is beautiful at any --> time of year, because of the light, I think. Even without the grape arbors blooming, the hills and valleys seem lusher than they have any right to be.
		To the far left are pictures of modern and medieval "ferro battuto" (wrought iron work). The fanciful door knocker and hitch for one's horse were among the visually entertaining details I keep my eyes on the lookout out for. While wandering through San Gim, I happened upon a ceramic store displaying a style of pottery I'd seen in Positano and had kind of regretted not buying. I went in to correct that and was captured instead by the vase/pitcher pictured to the left. Based on Etruscan pottery shapes, the artist makes one of a kind pieces that can be found only in a few shops (he's not even on line!). It was completely unlike anything I'd seen anywhere--graceful, imaginative, inspired-- and it called my name. Really.

Last stop on our official trip - Florence. I've been here a number of times, but I can never drink in enough of the beauty and inspiration that this place leaves me thirsty for (when I didn't even know I was thirsty!). I hardly ever take pictures here, because they end up being such pale images of the vitality and creativity that my eyes enjoy. It is mostly beyond my capability, living as I do in the faster/newer/more-is-better/military-industrial/technology-bytten age, to imagine how the leaders of this city (the Medicis) came to place such value on the creation of the art and architecture. In today's world, particularly in the schizophrenically puritan/for-profit-only U.S., this would all seem pointless and frivolous, maybe even "sinful" (ah, the ghost of Savonarola has apparently emigrated to friendlier shores).

We traveled one weekday in March to the north part of the province of Lazio (the region we live in) to explore the sights of Bomarzo, Bolsena, and Bagnoregio. Outside of the little hilltown of Bomarzo is "Il Parco dei Mostri" (Monster Park). Perhaps, you think, this might be a theme park with thrilling rides named after terrifying creatures. Well, it was a theme park of sorts, a large Renaissance garden created in the 1500s as an intellectual "ride" (i.e., a walk) through the fantastical figures of ancient myth.

Riddles and sayings are found carved in the pedestals and guideposts to stir one's meditations as one walks along the path (it helps slightly to understand Italian), ultimately leading to the temple of enlightenment. Its creator (sorry, his name escapes me just now) was a wealthy aristocrat, a grief-stricken husband who took solace in the creation of this park which he later dedicated to his late wife. Pegasus, a dragon, Hercules, an elephant, enormous turtles, nymphs, fountains, benches, and a funny little two-story tilted house straight out of "Alice in Wonderland" were all sights along the journey. The day was one of our first truly gorgeous spring days and we all enjoyed the park (though, to my knowledge, no one achieved enlightenment).

Although it is not Bolsena's claim to fame, Lago di Bolsena is Europe's largest lake of volcanic origin. It's natural beauty is its attraction, however, and we enjoyed lunch by its shore.

Our last stop was to the "dying city," Bagnoregio. One of central Italy's many hilltowns, the geological structure on which it has perched for hundreds of years has steadily crumbled away. What is left seems to over-imaginative eyes to be a "fairy city" that fairly invites you to step into what is sure to be its magical innards. Isn't it odd how ghost towns such as Bagnoregio can inspire such romantic ideas? We were there on a sunny clear day, but in the morning mists of humid days Bagnoregio can seem to rise out of the clouds.

The little coastal town of Nettuno is not well known. However, it was the actual beach on which the American contingent of the Allied Forces in WWII landed in the invasion known as Anzio. Our history instructor, Marco Antonini, who was a teenager living in Ariccia at the time of the Allied Landing, accompanied us on our 45 minute bus-ride from Ariccia to Anzio. He provided first-person commentary as well as historical background for our visit there. "Campo di Carne" is a town we passed through as we drew closer to Anzio. Many decades prior to WWII, the town's name was given to it because it was a meat market where the slaughtering of animals for food took place. "Campo" means "field" and "carne" means "meat" or "flesh." Unfortunately and with brutal irony, this town was later the scene of human slaughter as well. Thousands of British, German, and American soldiers died here in these flat, but deceptively uneven, swampy fields.

We visited the cemetery in Anzio, in which rest the remains of known and unknown U.S. soldiers who lost their lives in the many battles associated with the Anzio campaign. It took over a year to liberate Rome from the Nazis. The white gravestones go on and on, positioned with military precision. Over 7000 are buried here, about 40% of the number who died. The rest were sent home at the request of their bereaved families.

In Nettuno, we visited a private museum put together by an Italian man who was born several months after the Anzio invasion. His family and the other residents of the coastal towns had been told to evacuate the area. They were allowed to take one bag of possessions with them. His family went South and he returned later as a young man to Nettuno. One day in the 1970s, he was approached by an American asking for information about where certain things might be found, but our Italian friend couldn't answer him. This American was a returning WWII veteran. Our Italian friend subsequently wanted to find out everything he could so that he could answer the questions of others who might come after. This museum was born from his search and it is truly a touching place. Pictures of WWII soldiers as they were in 1944 and as they were when they returned after 40-50 years are placed side by side. News clippings, enlarged photos of life and war in the Anzio area, military gear and clothing--all have been collected because of this friend's devotion to the task of remembrance. Many veterans from all sides of the war have come to see a dramatic part of their lives honored in this small museum.

What, you might ask, is a picture of Scotland's Loch Lomond doing on my Italy webpage? SPRING BREAK!!

Among my many European travels in the last 30 years, I have somehow left till last seeing the English-speaking countries of my ancestors. England and Scotland are primary among the traditions that are part of my mongrel American heritage, and I am taking this semester's opportunity to visit them. First Scotland: Five days combined in Glasgow and Edinburgh. To sum up what I enjoyed: A lot of city sites, sprinkled with loch and highland views. An abundance of clouds and a wee bit of sunshine. A lot of friendly, hardy folk. The "Glasgow Style," as well as some wonderfully imaginative modern architecture. The closes off the Royal Mile as well as its beginning and ending points (i.e., Holyrood Palace and Abbey and the new Scottish Parliament at one end and Edinburgh Castle on the other).

	<- A section of Stirling Castle, where the parents of Mary Queen of Scots (James V and Mary of Guise) lived for a time, building the Palace with its carved wooden rondels and the Great Hall with its impressively reconstructed hammerbeam ceiling. Taking "the high road" back to Scotland meant to return alive, while "taking the low road" back meant to travel through the fairy world after one's death...the low road will get you back sooner, but you won't be able to sit with your true love anymore on the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond -->
	<--Hamish - a highland bull. Enjoys posing for pictures, but watch out for those horns! Alex, our Rabbies Tour guide,--> and me on a wind-blown hiking path above the loch.

When you go to Edinburgh, I recommend two enjoyable ways to take in the sites and learn about the history of Scotland and its traditions. The first thing to do (but if you can't do it first make sure and do it anyway!) is Adrian's Bike Tour. Three or more hours of touring the streets and alleyways on a great bike with a great guide in a great city! It was a terrific way to get the feel of Edinburgh. The physical exertion by pedal power was easy and enjoyable. When I was done, I could find my way around the city on foot with ease. Literary Pub Tour begins in Haymarket? No problem, I know where that is and the quickest route to hoof it there. Want to know more about Scotland? Hey, the Museum of Scotland (great exhibits and a beautiful space, by the way) is right down there where we saw the Covenanter's Prison and Greyfriar's Bobby - up the Royal Mile, left on George IV's Bridge and "straight on 'til morning...." Look for Adrian's fliers in various info centers or get his number off his internet site (www.edinburghcycletour.com).

Adrian & Chas and Lucy from England (celebrating their 20th wedding anniversary!)

The second thing to do is to take a tour out of the city into the countryside. Rain or shine, it's beautiful. I enjoyed my one-day Rabbies Tour to Stirling Castle (home of the Stewarts, among others before and after them), the Trossachs, and Loch Lomond (with plenty of time to get out and wander around). There are lots of bus tours going out, but Rabbies concentrates on small groups of no more than 16 and uses small powerful minivans to better travel the narrower back roads. Expert guides (our Alex was great!) with lots of stories and facts to share are the rule (www.rabbies.com).


^On the path to my self-catering apartment	^The remains of Holyrood Abbey (Edinburgh)	^Inside the walls of Stirling Castle

<- Edinburgh Castle sits above the city on a craggy rock at the top of what is called the "Royal Mile." At its foot is now a public park, which was once another layer of protection in the form of a lake.

Not quite at the very bottom of the Royal Mile is the new Scottish Parliament --> building. It's modern architecture is controversial. Once I understood the concept of the architect though, I loved it!

A low relief in the "Glasgow Style." One of many representations of it currently being shown in Glasgow's McLellan Gallery

A Margaret McDonald work, a mural installed in one of Glasgow's famous turn-of-the century tea rooms.Glasgow, McLellan

"The Druids," a cooperative work by two of the "Glasgow Boys". Hey, these folks look like Native Americans! Glasgow, McLellan

Even in Glasgow, one is near Ariccia. Anesi painted the Chigi Place and Church of the Assumption in 1700s. Glasgow, McLellan

Next entry when I come back from a week with the students in fashionable, foggy, thoroughly modern Milano! ....And here it is!

We had a great week in Italy's design capital. First, we were fortunate to be able to enter the private residence of one of Italy’s most prominent art collectors (Sig.re Koelliker - yes he's Italian) and see his astonishing collection of masterpieces hanging everywhere (even in the bathroom and closets!). Second, because the building we were supposed to have classes in burst some pipes and flooded, we were moved into a private residence across the street from the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie (where Leonardo da Vinci painted “The Last Supper”). In this lovely palace with its lush garden space hidden out of view of public spaces (as is so often the case in Milan), da Vinci stayed and had a workshop while painting his masterpiece on the wall of the seminary attached to the church. Finally, we visited Lisa Ponti, the 80-something-year-old daughter of the important Italian architect, Gio Ponti, in her private residence—also an architecturally notable building designed by her father. This is something that each program, I think, has been privileged to do. Lisa loves to meet with young people and to understand what they are thinking.

	<- Two views from inside the newly renovated (it took three years!) La Scala - the world renowned opera house. I sat in a first floor box and enjoyed a concert of Schubert and Beethoven performed by the La Scala Symphony and Chorus. Visually and acoustically wonderful!
After an evening at La Scala, it is customary to head over to "Primafila," a restaurant and pizzeria. This is my favorite restaurant from last summer's "fashion week trip" and the students and faculty went there again for our first night in town. (And I went there every night thereafter!) It was good to see pals made last summer. Here we are just about to down our "heart pizzas" made especially by the Primafila staff for Susanna, our local program coordinator, and me. Giovanni, Raffaele (below right), Carmine (below left), Agostino, and Marcello took good care of us.

After Milan, the students had been given a long weekend to take in Venice or Lake Como or wherever they chose. I headed to Verona, one of my favorite places in northern Italy. So gracefully modern and ancient at the same time, situated along the Adige River at the base of the foothills of the Dolomites (Italian Alps). Before we left for the north, the spiritually vigorous, humble John Paul II died. It was an odd combination I felt of sadness and awe at being so close to Rome during this historic time. It was an inspiration to me, a non-catholic, to see a life so well and fearlessly lived. Many Italians are finding that his passing leaves an enormous hole in the fabric of their lives in a way they would never have expected. Later in the week, I witnessed much of the funeral, in the comforting company of others in the main square of Verona, on a "maxi screen" set up on the steps of the city hall.


The Castelvecchio (Old Castle), c. 1350s	City view from the bridge of Castelvecchio	The bridge itself, now a public walkway
	One of Verona's many charms is its amphitheater, l'Arena, built in the first century a.d. It is still used today for concerts and a grand summer opera season that always includes Verdi's "Aida." Restoration continues outside, but from inside one can look out on the city and the hills and mountains beyond (on clearer days).
		In the Main city square just to one side of the Arena, in front of the city hall, a large screen was set up for the public to observe the funeral of Giovanni Paulo II.

One friend told me that she had never known any other Pope and felt uncertainty for the future without him. Her mother had told her stories of how Popes in the past had died and new ones had been chosen, but she hadn’t any sense of security about what would happen next. Another friend said she remembered being taken as a 3-year-old to see Giovanni Paulo. There was a great crowd of people and she remembered being impressed that the Pope held up and kissed the little babies.

Rome will continue to be a center of attention as the process of selecting a new Pope gets underway. Up until not long ago (middle 1900s), each Chigi Prince, in succession, was the appointed "mareschal," the official "bearer of the keys" to the Sistine Chapel. If you know about the history of Papal succession (or if you've read "Angels and Demons"), the Sistine Chapel was/is where "conclave" (meaning literally "with keys") -- the secret ballot meetings among the cardinals -- was held and a new Pope was chosen. In the Chigi Palace, there is quite a collection of keys to the doors of the Sistine Chapel. Between Bernini and those Chigi princes -- Ariccia surely holds down its place in the history of central Italy.

Only three weeks of the program left...